Whether you approach luxury watch collecting with an aesthetic mindset or a technical one, there is one corner of the watch market that is incredibly diverse: the dive watch sector. This guide to the best dive watches will point you towards finding the ultimate wrist companion.
Why is a dive watch needed?
The dive watch has been around since the 1950s. Originally released as a tool for swimming enthusiasts, the style of watch soon took off once it caught the attention of scuba divers, promising to be an indispensable tool for exploring great underwater depths. These watches could help assist with computer dive technology, plus they looked appealing. Leading brands within the industry were competing against one another to produce a watch with superior water resistance and were exploring materials and research to help them become the first to break records. DOXA, Audemars Piguet and Rolex are just a few examples of brands that were on collectors' radar, producing iconic watches that captured the hearts of this rather niche sports watch design.
It would be 1996 when the International Organization for Standardization drew up a set of rules that would determine whether a timepiece could be defined as a diver’s watch or not. Those who did tick all the right boxes were identified as being certified by the ISO 6425 standards. As a result, they were permitted to display the word “Diver” in their title or description and needed to be water-resistant to a specific standard. They also needed to offer a legible dial with luminous markings, be crafted from a robust material, and have a means of recording time underwater i.e. a unidirectional rotating bezel. Today many watches cover this criteria. But which dive watches are the best? We're going to uncover that for you in this guide.
Panerai Submersible Carbotech watch Reference: PAM01231
The Submersible watch collection is reserved for Panerai’s serious dive watch fans. Top models in the series are water-resistant to 2,500 meters. In addition to that, they are fortified by the brand’s innovative case materials, like Carbotech. The composite material is based on a carbon fibre that has never been used within the industry before. Its black appearance, matt and uneven, gives the watch its dynamic and youthful yet bold edge. In this design, elements of striking blue stand out against the richness of its stealthy black dial, displaying the small seconds at 9 o’clock and the “Submersible” lettering at the top of the dial. Plenty of the brand’s own luminous material has been applied to the surface of the hands and hour makers in this 42mm diver’s watch. One of its notable features is the watch’s lever bridge – innovative in many ways. It protects the crown from impact. The watch is also 300-meter water resistant and features a matching Carbotech anti-clockwise bezel.
Omega Seamaster Diver 300M watch Reference: 210.92.44.20.01.003
This Seamaster Diver 300M watch from Omega is a symbol of stealth and masculinity. Named the “Black Black” version, its powerful 43mm presence on the wrist is enhanced further by a superb choice of materials. You get a scratch-resistant black ceramic case, which frames a black wave-pattern dial that has been treated with lashings of Super-LumiNova material. In the dark, the watch comes alive, displaying the time clearly through a set of diver-type hour markers and a set of arrow-tipped hands. This Omega Seamaster Diver 300M watch is also powered by an in-house calibre. The 8806 movement is chronometer-certified for unwavering accuracy. It also delivers a power reserve of 55 hours and is resistant to magnetic damage thanks to a silicone balance spring and is protected from pressure damage caused by helium gas build-ups. This is down to a helium escape valve at 10 o’clock.
Breitling Superocean Automatic watch Reference: A17375211B1S1
Don’t look any further if you want ample water resistance in a watch paired with retro aesthetics. This dashingly good-looking Breitling diver’s watch is all that you need. The model measures a 42mm diameter, making it a great universal size. It’s also crafted from stainless steel and integrated with a water resistance of 300 meters. The Breitling Superocean watch revisits the design of the company’s earlier Slow Motion watch, equipped with a high contrast dial ring, clean lines and chunky luminescent indexes, as well as squared-off hands. This design, with its black legible dial and black-filled ceramic diving bezel, is perfect for keeping track of elapsed time underwater with two gaskets sealing a screw-locked crown and a supple black rubber band for enhanced comfort.
Rolex Submariner watch Reference: 124060-0001
The Rolex Submariner ref 124060 is a 41mm model that continues the iconic look of the brand’s 1950s iterations. It now features many advanced attributes like the Cerachrom bezel insert, designed for scratch resistance and colour-fade resistance. It also offers a 300-meter water resistance – a far cry from the brand’s initial 100-meter water-resistant Submariner watches. Its black dial with large luminescent hour markers is hard to miss on the wrist. Everyone knows the recognisable style of the Submariner. The model’s rotating bezel has a 60-minute graduation and is designed to move in the counterclockwise direction when in use. It can be aligned with the central minute hand for effortless timekeeping. Yet, if you wanted to enjoy the Submariner watch for the simple daily beater that it is, it’s a no-fuss model, perfect for wearing every day on its Oystersteel bracelet.
Breitling Superocean Heritage II watch Reference: A13313161C1S1
Speaking of legends, the Breitling Superocean Heritage II is where retro aesthetics meet functionality. The dive watch tastefully embodies all that is special about this Swiss brand. The model is one of our favourites and is loved for its vintage charm and its character-full design. The deep blue dial and bezel of this model perfectly capture the deep entrancing tones of the ocean. What’s more, this stylish diver’s watch is enriched by an additional complication - the chronograph. It adds sporty undertones to the design, whilst a unidirectional rotating bezel operates familiarly. This bold 44mm diver’s watch, inspired by the surfing lifestyle of the 1950s, is water-resistant to 200 meters and is powered by a chronometer-certified automatic movement. The Breitling 13 calibre produces a 48-hour power reserve, which is great for periods where you want to rotate your collection. It operates at 28,800 vibrations per hour. All the while, it is secured inside a case fortified by a screw-down crown and caseback.
Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 6000M Ultra Deep watch Reference: 215.30.46.21.03.001
As you would know by looking at its name, the Omega Seamaster Planet Ocean 600M watch is water-resistant to 600 meters. The design is perfect for you if you take diving seriously. To equip it with such a high water-resistant rating, the solid stainless-steel bodywork of its design is equipped with a screw-down crown, a strong scratch-resistant sapphire crystal glass front, and an anti-magnetic movement for unwavering accuracy. Its rich blue dial evokes the underwater world and presents the time clearly with an hour track and handset crafted from 18ct white gold. These features are also treated with plenty of luminous material. The lacquered gradient blue-to-black dial changes shades depending on where you cast your eye. Furthermore, its Liquidmetal diving scale is crafted from black ceramic to match the model’s innovative O-MEGASTEEL bracelet. The metal bracelet features a patented extendable fold-over clasp, as well as with a diver’s extension mechanism. This proves useful for wearing over the top of diving gear.
Ulysse Nardin Diver watch Reference: 1183-170-3/93
This 44mm Ulysse Nardin diver’s watch certainly commands attention with its broad case diameter and deep blue aesthetic. Its audacious design can withstand up to 300 meters of water pressure and is neither classic nor contemporary in its aesthetics. A rich blue dial sits at the centre of a lightweight titanium case, featuring red accents in the small second hand and the “0” point of the power reserve indicator. These functions are arranged at 6 and 12 o’clock respectively, adding to a balanced dial. The Ulysse Nardin Diver watch has luminous hands, along with hour markers that sit fully protected underneath an anti-glare sapphire crystal glass surface. To complete its dive-ready look, the model is fitted on a blue rubber strap to match its ribbed blue diver’s bezel.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris Mariner Date watch Reference: Q9068180
The Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris has been around since the 1960s and is home to the legendary Polaris Memovox with an in-built alarm. The collection is now home to modern interpretations of the earlier Polaris watch, yet the design has lost nothing in terms of its character or appeal. It’s what still makes the Jaeger Le-Coultre dive watch a hugely sought-after watch. This model is incredibly sporty with its graduated blue dial that comprises three individual layers. It features an opaline dial bezel, a grained index circle and lastly, a sunray brushed centre. Whether you plan to purchase a dive watch for underwater pursuits or not, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris watch is great for dressing the wrist for smart casual events. It features a triangular inner bezel that pairs well with orange triangular markers and luminous hands. Straddling the lines of a tool watch and a dress watch, this diver’s watch looks good whether you wear it to the beach or the boardroom.
Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea watch Reference: 136660-0003
The Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea watch was made for the ocean and remains one of the company’s most impressive dive watches to date. In part, this is to do with its staggering water resistance of 3,900 meters! Built for the professional diver, it was launched in 2008, boasting a robust stainless steel case measuring 44mm in diameter. This superior water resistance is only made possible by way of a revolutionary case design named the Ringlock system. The watch is subjected to tests where it is exposed to a pressurised container developed by COMEX and must pass this test before it is deemed suitable for facing such depths. To help with its ability to venture down underwater, the Rolex Sea-Dweller Deepsea is equipped with a helium escape valve, located on the left of the case. It is also powered by a chronometer-certified movement – the Calibre 3235. The Swiss engine produces a power reserve of 70 hours. The movement is completed with a Paramagnetic paraflex shock absorber and blue parachrom hairspring for superior mechanical performance.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch Reference: 15720ST.OO.A052CA.01
One thing we love about this Audemars Piguet diver’s watch is its unusual colour scheme of khaki and beige. The design is primed for adventures and will appeal to those who like to explore the underwater world, as well as dry-land pursuits. To equip it with such a role, the model features a rubber band in a khaki colour. The strap secures firmly and comfortably to the wrist with a stainless steel pin buckle. The strap is also interchangeable and looks just as good on a black rubber band. On the surface of the brand’s Grande Tapisserie dial, pink gold hour markers and hands marry nicely with a black rotating inner bezel, accompanied by beige-coloured minute details. The features on the dial are, of course, treated with lots of luminescent material to enable them to stand out in dark conditions. The 300-meter water-resistant Royal Oak Offshore Diver watch is crafted from stainless steel and measures a size of 42mm. As a nice alternative to the classic blue and black dive watches we so often see, this khaki-coloured Royal Oak Offshore watch is a great option for you if you want to get noticed for breaking the norm.
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