Audemars Piguet is celebrating its 150th anniversary in style—with fanfare, groundbreaking releases, and a playful, specially dedicated website. But amidst the festivities, one question looms: What is the timepiece that truly revolutionized the horology industry and propelled Audemars Piguet into the ranks of the world’s most recognizable luxury watch brands? The answer is the Royal Oak. Let’s take a deeper dive into the fascinating history of both Audemars Piguet and its iconic masterpiece.

1969: Audemars Piguet Buildings in Le Brassus

1969: Audemars Piguet Buildings in Le Brassus
In 1969, Audemars Piguet employed 79 people, including 65 artisans. The latest extension, inaugurated the previous year, housed the brand-new After-Sales Service. Audemars Piguet Archives.

The Humble Beginnings of Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet’s origin story is a testament to perseverance. In the 1870s, the Vallée de Joux, the Swiss heart of horology, was reeling from an economic downturn, partly triggered by the rise of industrialized watchmaking showcased at the 1876 Philadelphia World's Fair. Amid this crisis, 24-year-old Jules Louis Audemars returned to the Vallée with his wife and child after a year away in Gimel. The precise details of how he founded the company remain somewhat mysterious, with official records of the business only surfacing in 1881. But one thing is certain: the brand was born with a commitment to craftsmanship that would set it apart for generations.

Craftsmanship Over Mass Production

While many watchmaking brands during that era embraced industrialization, Audemars Piguet charted a different course. The brand focused on creating limited-edition, bespoke timepieces, often in collaboration with smaller, specialized workshops. This dedication to handcraft and innovation quickly earned Audemars Piguet a reputation for creating some of the most complicated timepieces of the time, including early minute repeaters and perpetual calendars. But no creation would leave as significant an imprint on the horology world as the Royal Oak.

The Royal Oak: A Revolution in Time

The Royal Oak was not just a watch—it was a revolution. Upon its release, it became the first high-end luxury sports watch made of steel (although the initial prototype was crafted in white gold). Its striking design was nothing short of groundbreaking, with features that still define it today: the bold 8-sided bezel, the signature “Tapisserie” patterned dial, and the integrated bracelet. This combination of sporty robustness and refined elegance made the Royal Oak both versatile and timeless—perfect for nearly any occasion. Over the decades, the watch has evolved in keeping with trends, but its core identity remains unchanged.

A Bold Collaboration with Gérald Genta

The birth of the Royal Oak owes much to the visionary collaboration between Gérald Genta, a legendary designer known for his work with prestigious brands like Patek Philippe and Omega, and Georges Golay, Audemars Piguet's forward-thinking director. In 1970, Golay approached Genta with an unusual request: to design a revolutionary steel sports watch. Genta took on the challenge, drawing inspiration from the shape of diver’s helmets, and incorporating bold, geometric elements like the octagonal bezel with hexagonal screws. The result was a timepiece that was as functional as it was stylish—an instant classic.

Gérald Genta and the first sketch of the Royal Oak

Gérald Genta drew inspiration from a diving helmet he’d seen, featuring eight bolts and an octagonal faceplate

Diving Helmet as an Inspiration

April 1970. Royal Oak Sketch
Drawn at Audemars Piguet’s request by designer Gérald Genta during the night of 10–11 April 1970, the first sketch of the Royal Oak already contained all the essential characteristics of the watch. Gouache and pencil on cardboard paper.

The first sketch of the Royal Oak

© Gérald Genta Heritage Association.

Design Mastery: The Royal Oak’s Signature Features

The Royal Oak’s design is a stunning blend of geometry. The octagonal bezel, circular dial, and tonneau-shaped case harmoniously converge into a form that remains instantly recognizable. Initially, prototypes were made of white gold—a luxurious material rarely used for sports watches at the time. The watch’s iconic hexagonal screws, visible on the bezel, became its trademark feature, adding a unique industrial touch to its elegance.

The Royal Oak's Signature Features

In 1972, the Petite Tapisserie pattern was introduced, adding depth and texture to the dial with intricate pyramids and diamond-shaped motifs. Meanwhile, the integrated bracelet—another groundbreaking aspect of the Royal Oak—was composed of 154 separate parts, a feat of artistry and engineering that showcased Genta’s genius.

The Petite Tapisserie pattern

The Royal Oak’s Enduring Legacy

The Royal Oak changed the course of watchmaking history. When it debuted in 1972, it challenged all existing design norms and redefined the very concept of luxury watches, especially during the tumultuous Quartz Crisis that threatened the mechanical watch industry. Thanks to the foresight of Golay and the innovative genius of Genta, Audemars Piguet set a new standard for luxury timepieces—one that would endure for decades. Today, the Royal Oak remains an icon of elegance, technical mastery, and cutting-edge design.

In honor of Audemars Piguet’s 150th anniversary, we’ve curated a list of six of the most iconic Royal Oak and Royal Oak Offshore models, which have retained all the rule-breaking spirit of the original watches, respectively released in 1972 and 1993. Explore the legacy of this extraordinary timepiece and discover how it continues to shape the world of horology.

The Most Iconic and Thrilling Royal Oak in History

The Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “150th Anniversary”

Limited Edition of 150 | Ref: 26585XTOO.1220XT.01
Bridging the past and present, this vintage-inspired timepiece pays a final homage to Calibre 5135, the historic openworked perpetual calendar movement. It combines titanium and BMG (Bulk Metallic Glass) in the case and bracelet for a limited edition of 150 pieces, showcasing the special anniversary design!

Royal Oak Perpetual Calendar “John Mayer”
Limited Edition of 200 | Ref: 26574BC.OO.1220BC.O2
Designed in collaboration with John Mayer, this limited edition pairs an 18-carat white gold case and bracelet with the Manufacture’s new shimmering, embossed “Crystal Sky” dial in a dark blue tone. It is also the last to be equipped with the self-winding perpetual calendar, Calibre 5134.

Royal Oak “Jumbo” Extra Thin
Ref: 16202ST.OO.1240ST.02
This “Jumbo” model pays tribute to the original Royal Oak from 1972 with its hand-finished steel case and “Bleu Nuit Nuage 50” Petite Tapisserie dial. It houses the latest self-winding movement, Calibre 7121.

Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Chronograph
Ref: 26238CE.OO.1300CE.O1
This model introduced Audemars Piguet's first black ceramic case and bracelet to the collection. Featuring a Petite Tapisserie dial, it combines technology and design seamlessly.

Royal Oak Offshore Self-Winding Chronograph
Ref: 26420TI.OO.A027CA.O1
This all-titanium Royal Oak Offshore, at 43 mm, sports a blue “Mega Tapisserie” dial with high-end finishing, as well as the Manufacture’s interchangeable strap system and the latest integrated flyback chronograph.

Royal Oak Mini Frosted Gold Quartz
Ref: 67630OR.GG.13120R.01
Inspired by the Mini Oak of 1997, this 23mm contemporary interpretation features an 18-carat pink gold case and bracelet glittering with Frosted Gold. The model is enriched with a tone-on-tone Petite Tapisserie dial and powered by quartz Calibre 2730.